At the moment I am prototyping a high quality pre-amplifier based around the PGA2310 volume control and an op-amp buffer input with RF filtering. Each channel will be selectable by relay, along with gain adjustment for each channel in terms of increase in dB. Each channel will be assigned a name that can be changed easily in software and stored along with default volume and channel in the on-board EEPROM.
Over the past month or two, I’ve finally fixed up some snags that I had when building the honey badger amplifier. When I first built it, I had a difficult time trying to track down dry joint on one of the start boards - it also had a bad IDC connector delivering power to it. In addition the PSU boards had a fault and needed to be stripped down and moved to new boards.
Over a couple of years, I slowly built out an amplifier based on the DIYaudio honeybadger design. It was an on/off process where I got one part of it working at a time. Starting by building the channels one at a time on a bench PSU. This project consists of a single large transformer and dual mono PSU boards with 20K capacitance on each channel, an Arduino based control board with soft start, overload protection and DC protection.
Source site fully documenting the build: http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Jenzen-SEAS-ER.htm A couple of months ago I built a pair of Jensen ER speakers from Troels Gravesen's website linked above. Given my room size I went for the slightly smaller ported design that is 360mm deep. Now both they and I have had chance to break in I'll write a little about them. In my case usage is about 50-50 audio and AV, and IMHO these speakers are equally at home with both Home Cinema and Music duties.
<img class=" titleimg" alt="pu glue oozing" src="/images/audio/oddsAndEnds/glue-pu-oozing.jpg"/> Over the past year or so I've pretty much switched from PVA to Polyurethane glue for most tasks. I've discussed this glue with other wood workers and in my favourite hardwood store SL Hardwoods of Croydon and all seem to agree it is a strong glue. To me it has one very large advantage for audio equipment over PVA; which is that it expands to fill any gaps.
<img class=" titleimg" alt="vta adjustment" src="/images/audio/oddsAndEnds/vta-adjustment.jpg"/> This is probably one of the cheapest things that you can make, and needs just a jigsaw with a metal blade and drill in order to make it. VTA adjusters just extends the height of the arm by a few milimeters and they just need to be made of a solid enough material to ensure the arm mounting is completely firm and has no play whatsoever.
For some time now, I've been running a pair of high quality bookshelf speakers based on the Seas Mimir design. Apparently, they are named after the Nordic god of Wisdom and Knowledge, I cannot disagree and with each listening I like them more and more. I've run them off both Roksan and Arcam amplification and I've really liked the sound from each. Many people think that when building speakers, the most important thing is the drive unit, but there are many concerns: the quality of the crossovers, the cabinet construction and the stuffing used.
Some time ago I built interconnect cable kit #6 from HI-FI Collective. It's been in my system now for some time and has been used in quite a few situations. Firstly, it's been used to connect an Arcam rDAC to my Roksan K2, secondly, it's been used to connect my Cambridge Audio 752BD to my Arcam AVR380 and lastly at the moment it's being used to connect my Project Tubebox IIse phono stage to the Roksan.
Orbit is a high performance DIY turntable based on Rega 24V decks. It's very easy to make using a moderately well stocked home workshop. In my opinion it competes well with decks costing a lot more than its sum of parts. It uses a fairly conventional design so that it is easy to fit the original Rega lid back onto it, this is important as a lid protects the fragile stylus when not in use and prevents dust reaching the deck.
<img class=" titleimg" alt="sub base" src="/images/audio/oddsAndEnds/sub-base-tile-intro.jpg"/> After doing a bit of tiling, it struck me just how thick the solid marble tiles are, and as I had a few left it struck me that they would make a good base for a component, such as a sub or turntable. In this case, I used a 15mm marble tile, 18mm of MDF followed by 15mm of tile. At the base I used some high quaility speaker feet left over from another job.